Suits, like we know as set of garments made from the same cloth, usually consisting of at least a jacket and trousers are extra layer of clothing worn not only as business wears but also as casual wears, wearing a suit brings an extra level to classic to our undershirts, but what if there is a mix up and we make a flop while trying to impress?
In this post you would be learning men’s suit style guides leading to being the urban and classic man, knowing what the styles and types of suits are, recommendations on who and when to wear the different suit styles available and more tips in between.
Men’s Suit Styles – The several styles available
The following underlisted are to be taken into consideration when thinking or talking about styles for the suit dress, as any choice made here will influence design and style arrived at
Cutting of the Suit:
The cut here refers to the tailoring of the suit which influences the outline and shape of the suit. A proper outfit here is shaped from the neck to the chest and shoulders to drape without wrinkles from being stretched tight. Shape is the essential part of tailoring that often takes hand work from the start.
Good tailoring is usually characterized by strongly tapered sides and minimal shoulder, whereas often rack suits are padded to reduce labor. More casual suits are characterized by less construction and tailoring, which can be arrived at using categories below:
- Ready made and altered “sizes” or precut shapes; a convenience that often is expressed over time with wrinkles from poor shaping, leading to distortion;
- The made-to-measure suit that uses measurements, not shaping, to achieve things like style, lengths and horizontal measurements;
- The custom, bespoke or tailoring-designed suit that has interim half-made fittings and is cut from an actual personal pattern.
Choice of Fabric and its Effect on Style
When looking at the style of the suit, choosing the right fabric for tailoring would really affect the style of the suit. Here we are not only considering the Look but also the feel and make up of the material.
Just for an overview, Choosing the best fabric for the Season, event and also for comfort affects the style of the suit because the tailoring of the suit depends firstly on the type of material chosen before the design selected.
Thinking of what fabric to select, here is list of materials/ Fabrics used for suit tailoring and what to expect when any is selected:
Wool: One of the most versatile of all fabric types also the most commonly used material. A suit made from wool can be worn in the summer or winter as the material can be woven into several other sub materials having different size and weight. Aside from its versatility, wool is also known to be durable and wrinkle resistant.
Tweed: The material is a type of wool but only heavier. Tweed is great in creating a winter suit. Aside from the fabric being thicker, warmer and water resistant, it is also a preferred fabric because of it’s durability.
Flannel: The said fabric, also another type of wool is soft and durable and quite perfect to be used in making a nice winter suit but not heavy enough to be used in the temperatures of spring and fall.
Gabardine: Also a sub material from the wool is a tough, tightly woven fabric suits made from gabardine is generally labeled as being suitable for dry cleaning only, as is typical for wool textiles
Polyester: It is one of the less expensive type of fabric in its class that is not prone to shrinking or wrinkling. For those who are trying to get the best quality but for a cheaper price, this type of fabric is the best option for you.
Cotton: If you want your suit to have an enjoyable and comfortable fit and feel, this is the material of choice. It is considered to be light and breathable. Mostly combined with wool to formed other sub material or just used in tailoring as is.
Cashmere: A hugely popular type of fabric which is known to be extremely comfortable and soft. Usually sought after by men who are worried about the weight of the suit for individual reasons.
Herringbone: Known for the heavy nature of its materials, this fabric is ideal in making winter suits. Also, creases and wrinkles are less likely to form.
Linen: In the summer seasons, linen is the material of choice. Light and moisture-resistant, this would be a perfect choice for your summer suit. It is also machined washable.
Ideal Number of the Front Button
- Single-breasted suits: in which the sides overlap very slightly, with a single column of buttons. Single-breasted suit jackets and blazers typically have one, two or three buttons on a column (jackets with one or four buttons exist, but are not common)
- The double-breasted suits: a conservative design with two columns of buttons, spanned by a large overlap of the left and right sides, overlapping front flaps which has on its front two symmetrical columns of buttons. The double-breasted jackets have only half their outer buttons functional, as the second row is for display only, forcing them to come in pairs.
The folded flaps of cloth on the front of the suit called the lapel, step lapel or step collar (British English) usually are formed by folding over the front edges of the jacket or coat and sewing them to the collar adding extra piece of fabric around the back of the neck. Suit lapel can be designed or found available in three different forms which are notched (also called “stepped”), peaked (“pointed”), shawl, or “trick”.
Notched lapel being the standard on single-breasted suits, and is used not only on nearly all suit jackets but also on blazers, and sports jackets. Finding the notched lapel double-breasted jacket is rare.
The notched Lapel is appropriate for most business attire and formal occasions like attending a wedding.
The peaked lapel (American English), peak lapel, or pointed lapel (British English), is the most formal, featuring on double-breasted jackets, and the peaked lapel is defined by the lapel edges pointing up and towards the shoulder unlike the Notched lapel which is popular on Single-breasted suits.
Being a very special designed and very formal it is usually worn when you really want to stand out from the crowd like your own wedding anniversary, your event, a diner or when you want that extra effect to your look.
Looking for a very simplistic suit and look, the shawl lapel, shawl collar, or roll collar is a continuous curve, it is now most common on the dinner jacket or tuxedo, this similarly began as informal evening wear, and was then made in both more and less formal versions, depending on the situation in which it was to be used.
As a style person you should be concerned about how the lapel of your suit is designed when selecting your suit, its just like the decision you make when you decide to either wear a crew neck shirt or a collared shirt the difference here is your decision is with your suit lapel design.
Pocket Style and Positions
Most jackets have a variety of pockets styles and design which includes the Breast pocket, inner pockets, and two main outer pockets, In addition to the standard two outer pockets and breast pocket, some suits have a fourth, the ticket pocket.
- The jetted pocket is most formal, with a small strip of fabric taping the top and bottom of the slit for the pocket. Which explains why it is traditionally found on the tuxedo.
- The flap pocket will add a touch of thickness on the hip, while the slit pocket gives a slimmer look and also has an extra lined flap of matching fabric covering the top of the pocket.
- Hacking pockets which are similar to normal ones, but slanted and should always have a flap, as they are used for more sporty purposes
- A ticket pocket was originally used for conveniently storing a train ticket
- A patch pocket is suitable for a sports jacket not for a formal suit but seen on summer linen suits, or other informal styles
Paying Attention to the Sleeves
While the button on the sleeves cannot be undone, it is usually designed to look as though it could.
Traditional sport or casual blazers have a level of one to two buttons on the sleeves while the formal or business suit usually have button levels of three to four and maybe rarely five is it is a bespoke suit.
Suit vent is a slit in the bottom rear (the “tail”) of the jacket. Originally, vents were a sporting option, but have now evolved to be not just a sporting option but for most casual and formal selections.
The Suit Vent can be found in different styles which includes the no vents, single vents and Double/ two-sided vent.
No Vent Suit
The no vent suit is more fitted and brings out the tight polished shape of the wearer, the downside of this suit vent type though is the fact that it is prone to wrinkle as there is no space to allow for material flexibility.
The single vent design exposes the backside of the wearer when they place their hands in the trouser pockets, not as popular as the Double vent but less prone to wrinkle compared to the no vent design.
Double/ two-sided vent
Saving the best for the last huh, the double-sided vent is the best option when it comes to the vent of a suit as it not only prevents wrinkle and stretching of the suit, but also a more classy and polished look compared to the no vent and single vent design.
Also, the flap of the suit comes up when you sit or put your hands in your pockets – preventing the jacket from creasing and keeps the backside covered.
Waist coats were supposed to be an only worn with the Single-breasted suit because they come as replacement to the double-breasted suit which already have extra layers serving the purpose of the waist coat. Suits can be the same color with the suit material and can be a different material, what matters here is the ability to mix and match color the right way.
The waistcoat is not obligatory for all single-breasted suit but allows for more shaping and also adds for formality and classiness to the look.
Trousers of the Suit
Suit trousers, also known as dress pants or pants in the US, are a style of trousers intended as formal or semi-formal wear. They are often made of either wool, mixture of wool and cotton, or polyester (although many other synthetic and natural textiles are used) and may be designed to be worn with a matching suit jacket. Suit trousers often have a crease in the front of each pant leg, and may have one or more pleats. Suit trousers can be worn at many formal and semi-formal occasions combined with a shirt that has no tie and a more relaxed fashion, which can be considered smart casual dress.
As an alternative to trousers, These are shorter, descending to just below the knees, fastened closely at the top of the calf by a tab or button cuff. While once common, they are now typically only worn when engaged in traditional outdoor sports, and have recently been seen to be worn in some formal settings and weddings. Though, should be noted that this have not been fully accepted in some formal settings.
Ways To Obtain a Suit
The suit obtaining method chosen here completely influence the style of suit, When thinking of the ways shoes are made available it is best to note that Suits are sold in roughly four ways
- Bespoke:, in which the garment is custom-made by a tailor from a pattern created entirely from the customer’s measurements, and style, also the design of the suit is either chosen by the customer or recommended by the designer, giving the best fit and free choice of fabric.
- Made to Measure: in which a remade pattern is modified to fit the customer, and a limited selection of options and fabrics is available;
- Ready to Wear: which is sold ready to be tailored or finally as is;
- Sold suit Separate: suit separates where jacket and trousers are sold separately, allowing a customer to choose the size and colors that is best for him and limit the amount of alterations needed.
Looking For a Suit to Buy Now?
If you read through this post then you will likely know what to look forward to now when you select your suit style anytime, if you have any questions, observations or you want to share your experience with this topic, kindly leave a comment below and I will reply I get them.
Here’s a quote from Hardy Amies